Cooking in Theory and Practice
Observations on the Arcana of the Culinary World
Life's too short to eat bad food
Essays and Observations
Reflections on food, cooking, and the people and traditions around the table—from a lifetime spent cooking, teaching, reading, and eating.
In Search of Lost Time
October 14, 2026
Returning for my high school reunion brings old friends, familiar places, and sharing good food
A Can Full of Memories
June 7, 2026
I think it’s fair to say that many have endured a parent’s jesting (mostly) about what will, or will not, be left to you in their Will. It can’t be just a Jewish thing. Usually, it comes off like the Swamp Castle scene in Holy Grail: “One day, lad, all this will be yours!” “What, the curtains?”
Bitter Dregs
April 18, 2026
Now that Passover has ended, permit me to remark upon something that I have observed over recent years: Prepared horseradish does not keep its flavor as well today as it has in the past. Horseradish and mustard are pretty much the only piquant condiments in the Ashkenazi Jewish pantry.
I Swear to Cod
March 18, 2026
It is the time of the year when the Fish Fry reigns supreme. I am not a fan. It’s not that I hate the fry -- I just don’t worship it as a true child of Buffalo should. But then, I am not a child of Buffalo. It may be as simple as having had so many that were just bad. You have probably had the same.